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Russell Warnick

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Russell Warnick

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Dining: Masseria

August 6, 2015 Russell W. Warnick
View fullsize Carne Cruda, Crudo
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I usually avoid soft-openings, I prefer to give a new spot a few weeks to find themselves, let alone share stories about those experiences, but as a fan of the chef, Nicholas Stefanelli I couldn't resist hitting up Masseria to show my support and indulge. It's been over six months since we've seen Stefanelli in the kitchen so it was long overdue to enjoy his cooking, plus the menu was half off for the first two weeks. 

There's no denying that Masseria is a beautiful restaurant, its neighbors in the Union Market area are warehouses, wholesale vendors and a Motel 6, industrial chic I think Stefanelli calls it. The outdoor area is a compliment of concrete, rusted steel, wood and custom Greek flooring. There are three dining areas in the fashionable courtyard, a lounge with sofas and coffee tables (cigars permitted), the outside dining room with standard seating and bar seats, the latter two covered by a retractable roof. 

Inside the main dining room there is a chef's table and seating at the open kitchen counter as well as the inside bar. A glass wall functioning as a wine cellar stretches one of the walls which pretty much serves as the backdrop to the restaurant, in addition to the "backsplash" of the open kitchen which is a stunning opal green subway style tile. 

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In Restaurants Tags Restaurants, Italian, Union Market, Washington DC
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Dish: Pizza Marinara

August 14, 2014 Russell W. Warnick
Marinara, Ghibellina

Marinara, Ghibellina

I've started to cut out dairy from my diet, at least to the best that I can. Coffee at home it's coconut creamer, if I'm craving a burger I'll skip the cheese. These are easy maneuvers. I still however crave a slice of pizza from time to time, I'm not talking your Papa John's or Pizza Hut, I don't need to break my no dairy rule for those, even after a drink or two I'm well behaved. Rarely can I eat a whole pizza, nor do I want to. It's a sharing dish, but it's not easy finding someone who will be happy to share a pizza sans cheese, at Ghibellina I think I've found the slice.

The Marinara at Ghibellina is worthy of a mention. I think we can all agree that the pizzas here are amongst the best in the city - brick oven roasted, slightly burnt crust, topped with razor-thin slices of garlic and fresh basil in a sea of rich tomato sauce. Delicious. More notably, during their happy hour which runs daily from 4-6:30, at $6.50 a pizza paired with a $5 glass of wine it's perhaps one of the best deals around.

If I made good choices we wouldn't be having this conversation, but I don't.

Ghibellina, 1610 14th Street NW, Washington, DC (closest metro: U Street)

In Restaurants, Dish, Happy Hour Tags Dining, Pizza, 14th Street, Italian, Cheap Eats, Washington DC
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Dining: Alba Osteria

July 31, 2014 Russell W. Warnick
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I think we can all agree that Washington is awash with the bottomless brunch cocktails, however, there are not so many of the bottomless food options. At $30 for both, Alba Osteria has pretty much undercut the competition. A relatively new restaurant with a not-so-new chef, Roberto Donna of Al Dente and more famously, Galileo, helms the kitchen. I dined at Al Dente a year or so back and I have fond memories of the upper northwest establishment; Alba Osteria on the other hand is not quite the same caliber, however for an all-you-can-eat affair it can't be sniffed at.

I'd like to say you should choose carefully, but you really don't have to. Perhaps a wasteful attitude, but if you don't like a dish you can simply discard it. In the interest of full disclosure I was at a group brunch -- a dozen of us -- despite this our server was attentive and as efficient as you can be serving a party our size. Other than a borderline unacceptable wait for a second beermosa (beer, Prosecco and OJ) refill it was great. Our server lead the ordering and prompted us to order two of everything off the menu (smart move), enabling us to decide what we liked so we could order more of.

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In Restaurants, Brunch Tags Italian, Brunch, Dining, Restaurants
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Dining: Dino's Grotto

May 29, 2014 Russell W. Warnick
View fullsize Pappardelle Cinghiale
View fullsize Dino's Grotto
View fullsize Lamb Meatballs

It's been roughly three months since Dino's in Cleveland Park shuttered, but owner Dean Gold wasted no time in moving across town to Shaw in opening up Dino's Grotto, a more casual iteration of the former. The dining room is basic, simple furnishings with impressive Italian silk tapestries which Gold and his wife Kay have collected over the years from trips to Tuscany.

If you were a fan of Dino then you won't be disappointed with the Grotto, there are new dishes that you could say fit more in with the neighborhood, but there are regulars which are familiar - the pork & veal Lasagnette made the trek across town, as did the pappardelle Cinghiale; a bowl packed of house made noodles in a rich creamy tomato sauce with wild boar ragu. This is one of those dishes that you'll be hard pressed not to order on each visit. Another dish to consider, if you're wanting something a little heartier is Fusili al Forno - a dish loaded with Border Springs lamb meatballs combined with the best of Italian flavors - smoked mozzarella and tomatoes.

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In Restaurants Tags Dining, Italian, Shaw, Restaurants, Washington DC
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